best canon digital camera 2012 review image
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I own a Canon 60D DSLR camera and I need to take photos for an upcoming school dance. I would like these photos to cone out as best as possible, but because of the situation, I need tips on how to set up the settings in my camera for the best results.
The dance is very active, and there many moving figures around multicolored/flashing lights in a dark environment.
What settings would help me get the pictures clear, crisp, and not blurry? How would I get the photos to come out with
Answer
First, forget about using your camera's built-in flash except for pictures of individuals or small groups and if you do use it in those situations you'll need to diffuse the flash.
Second, if you can afford either the Canon EF 28mm f1.8 or EF 35mm f2.0 then buy the one you like best after trying them at your local camera store. If you can't afford to buy a new lens then ask if you can rent one. Trying to use the slow, variable aperture zoom lens that came with your camera is going to require a very high ISO so a faster prime lens like the 28mm or 35mm will allow a lower ISO which means reduced digital noise and better image quality. You'll still need a high ISO such as 1600 even with an f1.8 or f2.0 prime lens to achieve a shutter speed fast enough to prevent blur caused by subject motion or camera movement. Since the lenses I'm suggesting are prime lenses with no zoom you'll have to "zoom" with your feet - take a few steps closer to get less in the scene, take a few steps back to get more in the scene. That's how we "zoomed" before zoom lenses were invented.
Third, use your camera's Spot metering setting so the camera's meter isn't trying to calculate exposure for the entire scene. Here are a couple of articles on using spot metering:
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/05/28/when-to-use-spot-metering
The idea is to meter only your subject(s) and let the background go dark.
As I said earlier, if you decide to use your camera's built-in flash in some situations it will need to be diffused. You can use a piece of tissue or thin white cloth or the "Puffer" from Gary Fong.
http://www.garyfongestore.com/featured-products/puffer-pop-up-flash-diffuser.html Using the flash without some sort of diffusion results in harsh lighting which is not very flattering.
From this review it appears that your camera does fairly well at high ISO values but I still recommend one of the 2 fast prime lenses previously referenced.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E60D/E60DA.HTM
Good luck and hope you share some of your results.
First, forget about using your camera's built-in flash except for pictures of individuals or small groups and if you do use it in those situations you'll need to diffuse the flash.
Second, if you can afford either the Canon EF 28mm f1.8 or EF 35mm f2.0 then buy the one you like best after trying them at your local camera store. If you can't afford to buy a new lens then ask if you can rent one. Trying to use the slow, variable aperture zoom lens that came with your camera is going to require a very high ISO so a faster prime lens like the 28mm or 35mm will allow a lower ISO which means reduced digital noise and better image quality. You'll still need a high ISO such as 1600 even with an f1.8 or f2.0 prime lens to achieve a shutter speed fast enough to prevent blur caused by subject motion or camera movement. Since the lenses I'm suggesting are prime lenses with no zoom you'll have to "zoom" with your feet - take a few steps closer to get less in the scene, take a few steps back to get more in the scene. That's how we "zoomed" before zoom lenses were invented.
Third, use your camera's Spot metering setting so the camera's meter isn't trying to calculate exposure for the entire scene. Here are a couple of articles on using spot metering:
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/05/28/when-to-use-spot-metering
The idea is to meter only your subject(s) and let the background go dark.
As I said earlier, if you decide to use your camera's built-in flash in some situations it will need to be diffused. You can use a piece of tissue or thin white cloth or the "Puffer" from Gary Fong.
http://www.garyfongestore.com/featured-products/puffer-pop-up-flash-diffuser.html Using the flash without some sort of diffusion results in harsh lighting which is not very flattering.
From this review it appears that your camera does fairly well at high ISO values but I still recommend one of the 2 fast prime lenses previously referenced.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E60D/E60DA.HTM
Good luck and hope you share some of your results.
Photographers, which is better, Nikon or Canon?
1Anonymous
I know the Canon 5D mark III is supposed to be the best camera out there and the Nikon D800 almost matches it, but I don't have 3000 dollars to spend.
So on a smaller, scale say 600-700 dollars,
would you say that the Nikon d3500 or the Canon T3 is better?
I like the 7- 9-blade diaphragm that Nikon offers opposed to the 6- 8- of Canon. But I hear that Nikon has too much magenta in their resolutions or too much yellow in the LCD.
Which has more aperture versatility and accurate shutter speed?
For outdoor/landscape, night, and long exposure photography, and natural looking portraits, which brand is better?
Any recommendations for models by each brand? Like, is it really worth it to get the T3i for such and such more dollars instead of the T3?
Thanks
Whoops- D3200
Answer
First, repeat this 100 times: "It isn't the camera its the photographer." Any DSLR in capable hands will produce good results. Your knowledge of Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field and your skill in using that knowledge will determine the quality of the results.
A DSLR doesn't have "aperture versatility". That is a function of the lens. Nikon and Canon offer a wide variety of lenses with different maximum apertures. The T3 and D3200 both come with an 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 zoom lens. Both manufacturers offer a more expensive 17-55mm f2.8 zoom as an alternative to the standard 18-55mm zoom.
Since all DSLR shutters are electronically controlled its safe to say any make and model will have an accurate shutter speed.
Most beginner photographs use the 18-55mm zoom for outdoor photography. The 18mm end of the standard 18-55mm zoom is suitable for landscapes although anyone serious about landscape photography will eventually want an even wider lens (10mm, 12mm, etc.) and a good tripod.
Natural looking portraits are a result of the photographer's skill in using good lighting and posing techniques and in knowing what lens to use. The make and model of camera is irrelevant.
Long exposure photography requires a tripod and, if done during daylight hours, a Neutral Density (ND) filter.
The Canon T3 is their most basic entry-level DSLR. The Canon T4i when fitted with one of the two available Canon STM lenses (40mm and 18-135mm) will allow for auto focus during video. The T3, T2i and T3i don't have that feature/benefit.
The Sony SLT A65 allows for continuous, full-time, phase-detect auto focus whether you're shooting still images or full 1080p HD video with any AF lens in the Sony lineup. The Technical Image Press Association (TIPA) chose the A65 as their 2012 Top DSLR - Advanced.
The Pentax K-30 has a weather-sealed body and comes with a weather-sealed 18-55mm zoom lens. This makes it usable in the rain or in very dusty conditions that would damage the comparably priced models from Sony, Canon and Nikon.
At http://www.digital-slr-guide.com you can find comparisons of various makes and models of DSLR cameras. Compare them feature by feature.
You'll also find excellent reviews at http://www.imaging-resource.com and at http://www.dpreview.com
Ignore sites that only offer user reviews.
Visit a camera store and physically handle each make and model. One will just "feel" better as you handle it. If that particular models has all the features you want then its the one to buy.
Just remember this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer." It won't matter if you pay $500.00 or $5,000.00 for a camera if you aren't knowledgeable about Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field and, through practice, skilled in their use you'll get the same results regardless of how much you pay for the camera.
Spend time at these sites:
LIGHT
http://photographyknowhow.com/quality-of-light-in-photography/
http://photographyknowhow.com/direction-of-light-in-photography/
COMPOSITION
http://www.photographmad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules
EXPOSURE
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography
DEPTH of FIELD
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
City skyline: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048051455/ ISO 200, 100mm lens @ f11, exposure for 30 seconds.
Landscape: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3529681412/
Photography is an on-going, never ending learning experience.
First, repeat this 100 times: "It isn't the camera its the photographer." Any DSLR in capable hands will produce good results. Your knowledge of Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field and your skill in using that knowledge will determine the quality of the results.
A DSLR doesn't have "aperture versatility". That is a function of the lens. Nikon and Canon offer a wide variety of lenses with different maximum apertures. The T3 and D3200 both come with an 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 zoom lens. Both manufacturers offer a more expensive 17-55mm f2.8 zoom as an alternative to the standard 18-55mm zoom.
Since all DSLR shutters are electronically controlled its safe to say any make and model will have an accurate shutter speed.
Most beginner photographs use the 18-55mm zoom for outdoor photography. The 18mm end of the standard 18-55mm zoom is suitable for landscapes although anyone serious about landscape photography will eventually want an even wider lens (10mm, 12mm, etc.) and a good tripod.
Natural looking portraits are a result of the photographer's skill in using good lighting and posing techniques and in knowing what lens to use. The make and model of camera is irrelevant.
Long exposure photography requires a tripod and, if done during daylight hours, a Neutral Density (ND) filter.
The Canon T3 is their most basic entry-level DSLR. The Canon T4i when fitted with one of the two available Canon STM lenses (40mm and 18-135mm) will allow for auto focus during video. The T3, T2i and T3i don't have that feature/benefit.
The Sony SLT A65 allows for continuous, full-time, phase-detect auto focus whether you're shooting still images or full 1080p HD video with any AF lens in the Sony lineup. The Technical Image Press Association (TIPA) chose the A65 as their 2012 Top DSLR - Advanced.
The Pentax K-30 has a weather-sealed body and comes with a weather-sealed 18-55mm zoom lens. This makes it usable in the rain or in very dusty conditions that would damage the comparably priced models from Sony, Canon and Nikon.
At http://www.digital-slr-guide.com you can find comparisons of various makes and models of DSLR cameras. Compare them feature by feature.
You'll also find excellent reviews at http://www.imaging-resource.com and at http://www.dpreview.com
Ignore sites that only offer user reviews.
Visit a camera store and physically handle each make and model. One will just "feel" better as you handle it. If that particular models has all the features you want then its the one to buy.
Just remember this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer." It won't matter if you pay $500.00 or $5,000.00 for a camera if you aren't knowledgeable about Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field and, through practice, skilled in their use you'll get the same results regardless of how much you pay for the camera.
Spend time at these sites:
LIGHT
http://photographyknowhow.com/quality-of-light-in-photography/
http://photographyknowhow.com/direction-of-light-in-photography/
COMPOSITION
http://www.photographmad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules
EXPOSURE
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography
DEPTH of FIELD
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
City skyline: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048051455/ ISO 200, 100mm lens @ f11, exposure for 30 seconds.
Landscape: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3529681412/
Photography is an on-going, never ending learning experience.
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Title Post: Photography tips for a dark lit environment with moving figures?
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Rating: 94% based on 99768 ratings. 4,5 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thank FOr Coming TO My Blog
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